Why doesn't my makeup last?

Ever wondered why your make up doesn't stay on? Do you find that when you get home after a long day you look as though you never bothered to apply make up? Hopefully this post will shed some light on why this is happening and how to prevent it..

Well prepped skin is key, it enhances the quality of your products and is the perfect base. If your skin is cleansed and exfoliated then it is blank canvas ready for your makeup to be applied. Think of it when you come home from holiday an the dredded two weeks later your skin starts to peel. The skin is dead and flaking off therefore the makeup cant sit correctly and it becomes patchy throughout the day. Your skin naturally sheds, yet not as obviously so if dead skin isn't removed it makes it harder for your makeup to look flawless and last. A couple of years ago this happened to me eventhough I hadn't changed my foundation. I began to exfoliate twice a week an never had this problem again. Always use a moisturiser! Even if you have oily skin this is an essential step if you want your makeup to last all day. Opt for a lightweight one so it soaks into skin an doesn't feel greasey. Use a heavier moisturiser in the night time before bed. I would recommend strobe cream/ liquid from MAC for your everyday moisturiser.

Primer is another must! I know some people don't use a primer, but I honestly couldn't go back to not wearing one. I do believe you get what you pay for with a primer and I doubt I will ever change from my Laura Mercier one (there is a post dedicated to this primer if you scroll down) yet any primer even a very cheap one will be better then no primer. The reason majority are expensive even brands such as No7 charge £20 for a primer is because it is essential an key for a flawless makeup look and for it lasting throughout your day.

'Long lasting' foundations aren't always the answer, neither is full coverage. I believe the products you use to team with any foundation is the bigger factor when making sure it lasts all day. A powder is essential. I find many clients and women I come across don't like to use a powder as it can look heavy on the skin. A translucent finishing powder is perfect. Colourless and lightweight, your primer and foundation sit as one and then the powders sets the base and locks in this flawless finish. I use MAC mineralize skin finish which gives me a bronzed glow yet sets my makeup at the same time. It is water baked so isn't heavy yet sets the skin ready for blushers and highlighters to sit on top. There are also sprays available which can set your makeup, I must be honest and say I've never needed something like this, yet if you find after trying all these steps your makeup still doesn't stay on, then this could be an option.

I believe another factor is how you apply your foundation. Using your hands automatically gives you a more sheer coverage from your foundation as the heat from your hands can break up the formula of the foundation on application. So what you believe to be a medium or full coverage won't be once applied with your hands. I would recommend a brush and my favourite type of foundation is a buffing/ stippling brush. It has a flat end and literally works the foundation into the skin so it is well buffed in and doesn't sit on top of your skin. If you use a sponge this will give you the most coverage; I find this can backfire and cause makeup to come off. For me personally when using a sponge my cream foundations can feel thick and sometimes cakey, especially in broad daylight. I subconciously then touch my face more, which in turn causes makeup to come off, due to the heat of my hands. 

Another reason why your makeup may not be lasting is due to weather conditions, or the conditions in your office/ work place. You can't tell your boss you need 'more space' or 'they need to invest in a better air con unit'. So you need to work around this. If heats the problem an you feel like it is sliding off and the primer and powder and a well prepped skin just doesn't work. Then this quick freshen up and slight re application on your dinner hour will do the trick. I don't expect anyone to haul their makeup bag to the office so simply your foundation brush, small amount of your foundation and a light spray. I use Fix + spray from MAC. Spray all over the face an with a tiny amount of foundation rebuff into the skin. The spray will allow your makeup to move and it will look fresh and radiant as though you have reapplied a full face, yet in half the time with less products. Then pop your blusher on top in needed.


If you find this is a new problem an you have been using the same products for a while, chances are your skin type may have changed as you've gotten older. I would start with a skin care routine of exfoliating and cleansing if that doesn't seem to work, think about changing your foundation to an oil free if you have oily skin for example.

Lastly the longer you spend applying and working products into the skin with good quality and clean brushes the better your makeup will stay and set. I hope this helps and don't forget to leave me comments. Follow me on twitter for more helpful hints and tips @Fair_of_Face

Fair of Face x

Finding your perfect foundation..

I believe majority of people need to educate themselves in what they are actually looking for in order to help the artist. This will in turn help you get exactly what you're looking for. Majority of the time you may not know what you are looking for therefore the artist will struggle to advise you.

First of all know what your skin type is.. it won't be the same as your best friend, your mum or your sister. It is simple to detect what type of skin you have. Do you find your makeup clogs in certain areas? or you have to moisturise more then most to achieve smooth skin.. this is a dry skin type. Do you find you have a shiney t- zone, or makeup slides off your face. Does your face feel greasey to touch? this is more towards an oily skin type. Then combination is a bit of both, most commonly and oily t-zone and then dry patches. Don't be afraid to say you don't have problematic skin, you're one of the lucky few who has good skin, this just means you have more choice of foundations. Once you know you're skin type it will become a lot easier to find a foundation as it will elimate a lot of others which won't be suitable.

 Next is what sort of finish you would like out of your foundation. Most commonly an oily skin type will opt for a matte finish and a dry skin for a dewy finish. This isn't always the case are there are no rules, you just need to know what you want so you can be advised towards the right product. For example if an oily skin type wants a dewy finish, you could use an oil control lotion teamed with a oil free foundation and then a liquid highlighter could be added after to give that extra radiance. There is also a semi matte finish available. A satin finish is popular for a more mature skin. Don't be fooled in thinking there is limited options when concerning a finish, just think of how you would like your skin to look. I have dry skin, I am aware of this so exfoliate and moisturise in order to keep it in good condition, yet I feel even when my skin is well hydrated it is slightly dull looking, therefore I opt for a foundation with a dewy finish and for a night out I mix in a liquid highlighter to give me that extra sunkissed glow.

Coverage is one of the things people most struggle with. This is how much of your skin you want to see through the foundation. For example if you have freckles a sheer coverage will mean you can still see them, if you want to conceal them you would opt for a full coverage. I am a firm believer in wearing a sheer to medium coverage for the day time. I find majority of young girls I meet especially late teens and early twenties choose a full coverage foundation because they get the odd break out and blemish. That is concealers job. If you have good skin, yet have the odd blemish full coverage isn't necessary. I understand it is what you feel most confident in, yet if you wear full coverage in the day in bright lights and to the naked eye it can sometimes look obvious and heavy. I prefer to have a more natural coverage in the day so my skin looks different in the day time then it does when I'm on a night out. Sheer coverage looks more natural, medium will give you extra coverage and can be built up over any problematic areas. A full will look the least natural- this is best for those who have a problematic skin, acne or scarring. Remember coverage can also be altered by how you apply the foundation, using your hands will give you less coverage, application using a brush will give you more and when using a sponge you will get the most coverage from the foundation.

The final thing isn't important to a lot of people, yet some have a preference, so i thought i would include it.. It is the form in which your foundation comes in. Some people prefer a liquid or definitely don't want a cream. Consider this when foundation shopping as this can eliminate some options. I personally don't have a preference and I mainly use liquid, yet I have started to wear a lot of cream foundations lately, there is also a powder which again is more popular with a more mature skin type. With me saying I don't have a preference I must admit I am yet to find a mousse foundation which I really like.

Foundation is such an important thing as it is the base of your whole look, therefore spend time working out what it is you want, try as many testers and samples you can. I have tried lots over the years and there are some I like over others and I have a few firm favourites, I will always keep looking and testing others (possibly due to the nature of my job.) What works for your friend may not necessarily be right for you, so try as many as you can, most counters offer sample pots or testers. I believe a foundation is like a perfume, what is nice on one person may not suit someone else and what isn't your style might be someone elses favourite. Once you realise it's a personal choice and hopefully this blog will help you to discover what exactly it is you want from your foundation your are better equipped to ask for help and the advisor is able to choose the best product for you. 

Remember the answer to the questions; what coverage? what is your skin type? and what finish? is never tanned/brown. Let the advisor match your colour and you can always lighten or darken with the use of powders. It is essential you get the right shade to match your skin. If you want it to match your false tan, wear the tan on the day of your match.

Fair of Face x


 

HD brows

In my opinion eyebrows frame the face. A well groomed brow completes any makeup look. So wether it be a dramatic night out makeup finished with a sharp and dramatic arch. Or a simple day look using a natural shadow and a quick brush through the hairs, to compliment an effortless look. Obviously there are many other ways in which you can wear brows. For most of us we don't have time to create a different brow each morning, although being a makeup artist I do favour my brows to be a particular way for 90% of my makeup looks/occasions.

When I decided I was fed up of drawing, filling in and creating a similar brow look almost each morning. I began my search for a treatment which would give me perfect brows to wake up to each morning. I discovered semi permanant brows/tattoo'd brows. I absolutley love some of my clients eyebrows, who have had this treatment done. Yet due to being a makeup artist (also I don't feel old enough to make such a commitment) This wasn't the right treatment for me. I still want the option of altering my brows. I feel tattoo'd brows is a better option for those who have trouble growing eyebrow hair or have very sparse areas. I definitely don't have this problem; In fact quite the opposite and if I allowed them I could find myself sporting a uni brow!

That's when I heard about HD brows. The only regret I have is not finding out about them sooner! It is a combination of six stages. Which takes up to an hour long. The aim is to create and define the perfect brow. Fill in any gaps and create a natural arch and a defined yet natural finish. The stages are; plucking, tinting, trimming, waxing, threading, shaping with a pencil and colouring with a powder. All precise stages which result in the perfect brow shape. You talk through with your beautician about what type of brows you want, obviously the aim is a perfect shape, yet you can decide if you want them thicker/thinner. A strong arch or slight arch etc and tweak them to your own style so not everyone leaves with the same generic eyebrows. Which I think is also a great aspect to the treatment. I mentioned previous I have no trouble growing eyebrow hair yet after years of dodgy waxing and over plucking, my left  eyebrow had taken a beating and was struggling to grow hairs at the end of. My brow specialist picked up on this before I mentioned it. She explained how she could encourage growth and train the hairs to grow in this particular direction. Unlike a typical eyebrow wax which removes hairs that dont fall into the natural brow shape. HD brows guides and trains these hairs to grow in a direction which will improve the brow fullness. The tinting is also different to a regular brow tint. Instead of it tinting the hairs it tints the brow area too. This means it lasts longer and if you are trying to grow hair in sparse areas this will cover the gaps in the mean time. I would say it took about three sessions to gain my perfect brow shape and fullness. Yet after the first treatment there was a huge improvement and a massive difference.

I aim to have my treatment done every four weeks. I find this is a good space of time. Only in the final week will they begin to look slightly untidy and a few stray hairs will appear, this is nothing a bit of eyebrow pencil and makeup can't hide. I am due my seventh HD brow session at the end of the month. It really does change my whole face and even without any makeup my brows looks perfectly groomed. I get so many compliments from both friends and complete strangers and I would recommend this treatment to anyone.

At £25 it is pricey. An definitely is expensive if you view it as an 'eyebrow wax and tint' which you can get down the road for a fiver (which I've heard too many times) Yet this is a treatment and precise stages which transforms brows and really makes a huge difference to you face and the framing of your face. Where i go to get mine they offer your sixth treatment for free, as a loyalty bonus. So you can view it as £20 a month for 6 months. If you go to a reputable brow place to get a wax and tint. It will cost in the region of £11 every two weeks. So if anything this is cheaper, and in my opinion far better. I have converted many friends and clients to this treatment, and they all agree they wouldn't change back. 

I know HD brows are becoming increasingly popular and now there are mobile specialists and numerous salons who offer this amazing service. I have mine done at 'The House of beauty' which is at the end of allerton road. (opposite the library). I have had a few of the beauticians there and they are all lovely. They are well trained and know exactly what they're doing. It's a gorgeous spa and I recommend 'The House' just as much as I do HD brows. 

Here is a before and after picture..

Fair of Face x

Clarins tan

I don't know about anyone else, but the idea of putting false tan on my face isn't appealing. The thought of the tan collecting around my eyebrows or coming out patchy, also I have a dry skin type and felt a tan would dry my skin out and not give me the nutrients it needed. Thats when i discovered the Clarins 'Instant Smooth Self Tanning '

It is not like your average tanning product. It comes in a large pot which looks like a moisturiser. The brown/orange colour doesn't look very appealing, yet once applied to the skin it gives a subtle glow and no orange undertones! It takes a few hours to develop, I usually apply the night before a night out and then two applications on the actual day, one in the morning and another late afternoon. Obviously you need to find out how many applications you need to get your desired colour for paler skin tones one should be enough. You apply it just like a moisturiser and make sure you spread evenly. I then thoroughly wash my hands and then repeat the rubbing in process with the product I already have on, just to ensure i havent missed any patches. If you did miss any patches I dont think it would be completley noticeable after one application. That's the beauty of this product it has a subtlety to it so even those who aren't the most precise can achieve the desired finish and not worry about a patchy face! It takes about five minutes for the tan to completley melt in and then I leave my face free of any makeup for at least five hours so I can really see what colour is being achieved.

 What I love about this product is, it has a gorgeous silky texture and makes my skin feel soft and cared for. I have quite sensitive skin around the eye area, so a harsh tan full of different ingredients also worried me. This is why i trusted Clarins, I've used many of their skin care products over the years and they've all been gentle and fresh. This tanning cream is no exception to this! It's a balm like texture and smoothes over the skin effortlessly. It gives a lovely bronzed colour with a subtle glow, opposed to a dirty brown and dull finish, which is another reason why I shyed away from face tans. It doesn't look greasey which I've found many tans have in the past, so this is a great product for those with an oily skin type. It makes my foundation appear brighter and my skin look radiant on a night out. Another perk is the next day after only a few hours sleep and one too many cocktails you still have this glow, and can look presentable, if like me, you work on sundays!

I would recommend this product to anyone who wants a boost of colour, yet doesn't want to trust a harsh face tan. If you miss your summer tan, (because lets face it makeup always seems to look better in the summer) then I would definitely recommend this product. It has earnt a permanant place in my beauty essentials. At £17.50 it is a reasonable price considering the quality of this product and I am yet to find any others to rival this tan. Even though I do use quite a lot of the product especially needing at least three applications for my desired colour, I still feel you get a good amount for the price. The only other down side is the smell. Don't get me wrong, I know all tans come with a smell and this is by far not the worst. Having said that it is quite over powering on application, yet once on the skin there is no smell. I would describe the smell as very sweet almonds. So by all means not a bad smell, just quite strong and I don't know wether this will appeal to all.

Please leave me a comment and let me know if you find a cheaper alternative or your thoughts if you have used this product yourself!

Fair of Face x

Primer

Primer is one of the staple products in my makeup kit. I wouldn't dream of applying make up knowing I'm wearing it for a long period of time and not applying primer before hand. It preps the skin and creates a flawless canvas ready for foundation and other products. Some have misconstruded ideas about primer, thinking it can be greasy or excentuate pores. Make foundation cling to blemishes or dry areas.. This may have been true in the early stages of a primer.. yet they are extremley advanced and the better ones are formulated to feel like a light moisturiser.

After discovering primer is a must have product I started to read lots of reviews and sample different brands. That's when i discovered Laura Mercier's primer. Just like the brands tinted moisturiser (which I have blogged about perviously) it has a few choices in the range each with a different benefit. There is a normal primer, then an oil free, hydrating, radiance and a newer addition to the range the mineral primer. 

My favourite is quite predictable.. the radiance. Don't be fooled by this added benefit into thinking it is shimmery! It adds a natural radiance and makes even the most matte foundations give a subtle glow. Its beautiful swept over the brow bone on minimal makeup days. Of course with it being a primer this beautiful glow will last all day!

I also love the normal primer. It really does do its job and give flawless results. Make up doesn't budge all day, yet you don't feel suffocated or like your foundation is glued to your face. Comfort and a flawless face which lasts all day!

At £28 pounds it is quite pricey. Yet after testing lots of other primers both cheaper and more expensive, high street and more luxury brands I can honestly say this is the best I have come across and it receives amazing reveiws. If you want a primer that does and amazing job then look no futher. A little goes a long way and with a wide range to suit all skin types you should find a formula that is ideal for you!

Fair of Face x

Zoo Project

I have just returned from ten nights in Ibiza! Whilst i was over there I did body painting for the event Zoo Project. For those who don't know I'll give a little insight.. Its pretty self explanatory but its a day event and it is set in a zoo themed outdoor venue. People are hired to dress as zoo creatures and the dancers are dressed as animals. Majority of those who go wear animal printed clothes and most get some part of their body painted with an animal print..

I decided I wanted to do my own painting so i packed my glitters, paints and brushes and off I went. Considering I'd never done this before I was pleasantly surprised at the outcome. I created a snake, peacock, tiger, bird and leopard. I loved doing it, it added to the day and I received lots of compliments.

                                                    Peacock

                                                    Bird

                                                    Snake

                                          Tiger's

I used a combination of snazaroo paints, gel based adhesive for glitter, cosmetic glitters in different colours and old make up brushes.

Fair of Face x

Real Techniques

These brushes are my favourite. They make my life so much easier as a make up artist. They are a dream to work with and super soft!

My favourite of the real techniques is definitely the stippling brush. Its a multi use and I have two so I use one for foundation and the other for applying powders and contouring the cheeks. It works amazing with a heavy coverage foundation. The short brush hairs and the flat end really buff the foundation into the skin. Which is what you need for a thick foundation, something like EL double wear, other wise it will sit on top of the skin and look cakey. I also find the stippling brush is good for foundations which require mixing to create a thicker formula an example of this is Mac face and body. I pour the product onto my hand and mix the foundation on my hand using the stippling brush, creating a thicker formula therefore more coverage. The brittles and short yet soft, so they can bend and reach awkward places such as around the nose area.

The powder brush used for bronzers and powders is amazing. It picks up a good amount of product and spreads evenly. Lots of clients comment on the softness of the brush. The blush brush is full, yet tapered at the end so perfect for sweeping product along the apples of the cheeks, I also use the blush brush for cheek highlighter.

The deluxe crease brush is perfect for concelear. Its fluffy and blends products amazing, covering any blemishes yet making the concelear appear buffed into the skin and even.

There are lots of others in the collection and I could write all day about them. I would recommend anyone who wears make up to try them. They are cheaper then most brush brand yet the quality is amazing. You can also go on the website where there are tutorials on how to use each brush, which is really good to ensure your using your brushes correctly and getting the best finish from your brush.

Fair of Face x