Thursday 17 January 2013

Why doesn't my makeup last?

Ever wondered why your make up doesn't stay on? Do you find that when you get home after a long day you look as though you never bothered to apply make up? Hopefully this post will shed some light on why this is happening and how to prevent it..

Well prepped skin is key, it enhances the quality of your products and is the perfect base. If your skin is cleansed and exfoliated then it is blank canvas ready for your makeup to be applied. Think of it when you come home from holiday an the dredded two weeks later your skin starts to peel. The skin is dead and flaking off therefore the makeup cant sit correctly and it becomes patchy throughout the day. Your skin naturally sheds, yet not as obviously so if dead skin isn't removed it makes it harder for your makeup to look flawless and last. A couple of years ago this happened to me eventhough I hadn't changed my foundation. I began to exfoliate twice a week an never had this problem again. Always use a moisturiser! Even if you have oily skin this is an essential step if you want your makeup to last all day. Opt for a lightweight one so it soaks into skin an doesn't feel greasey. Use a heavier moisturiser in the night time before bed. I would recommend strobe cream/ liquid from MAC for your everyday moisturiser.

Primer is another must! I know some people don't use a primer, but I honestly couldn't go back to not wearing one. I do believe you get what you pay for with a primer and I doubt I will ever change from my Laura Mercier one (there is a post dedicated to this primer if you scroll down) yet any primer even a very cheap one will be better then no primer. The reason majority are expensive even brands such as No7 charge £20 for a primer is because it is essential an key for a flawless makeup look and for it lasting throughout your day.

'Long lasting' foundations aren't always the answer, neither is full coverage. I believe the products you use to team with any foundation is the bigger factor when making sure it lasts all day. A powder is essential. I find many clients and women I come across don't like to use a powder as it can look heavy on the skin. A translucent finishing powder is perfect. Colourless and lightweight, your primer and foundation sit as one and then the powders sets the base and locks in this flawless finish. I use MAC mineralize skin finish which gives me a bronzed glow yet sets my makeup at the same time. It is water baked so isn't heavy yet sets the skin ready for blushers and highlighters to sit on top. There are also sprays available which can set your makeup, I must be honest and say I've never needed something like this, yet if you find after trying all these steps your makeup still doesn't stay on, then this could be an option.

I believe another factor is how you apply your foundation. Using your hands automatically gives you a more sheer coverage from your foundation as the heat from your hands can break up the formula of the foundation on application. So what you believe to be a medium or full coverage won't be once applied with your hands. I would recommend a brush and my favourite type of foundation is a buffing/ stippling brush. It has a flat end and literally works the foundation into the skin so it is well buffed in and doesn't sit on top of your skin. If you use a sponge this will give you the most coverage; I find this can backfire and cause makeup to come off. For me personally when using a sponge my cream foundations can feel thick and sometimes cakey, especially in broad daylight. I subconciously then touch my face more, which in turn causes makeup to come off, due to the heat of my hands. 

Another reason why your makeup may not be lasting is due to weather conditions, or the conditions in your office/ work place. You can't tell your boss you need 'more space' or 'they need to invest in a better air con unit'. So you need to work around this. If heats the problem an you feel like it is sliding off and the primer and powder and a well prepped skin just doesn't work. Then this quick freshen up and slight re application on your dinner hour will do the trick. I don't expect anyone to haul their makeup bag to the office so simply your foundation brush, small amount of your foundation and a light spray. I use Fix + spray from MAC. Spray all over the face an with a tiny amount of foundation rebuff into the skin. The spray will allow your makeup to move and it will look fresh and radiant as though you have reapplied a full face, yet in half the time with less products. Then pop your blusher on top in needed.


If you find this is a new problem an you have been using the same products for a while, chances are your skin type may have changed as you've gotten older. I would start with a skin care routine of exfoliating and cleansing if that doesn't seem to work, think about changing your foundation to an oil free if you have oily skin for example.

Lastly the longer you spend applying and working products into the skin with good quality and clean brushes the better your makeup will stay and set. I hope this helps and don't forget to leave me comments. Follow me on twitter for more helpful hints and tips @Fair_of_Face

Fair of Face x
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Wednesday 9 January 2013

Finding your perfect foundation..

I believe majority of people need to educate themselves in what they are actually looking for in order to help the artist. This will in turn help you get exactly what you're looking for. Majority of the time you may not know what you are looking for therefore the artist will struggle to advise you.

First of all know what your skin type is.. it won't be the same as your best friend, your mum or your sister. It is simple to detect what type of skin you have. Do you find your makeup clogs in certain areas? or you have to moisturise more then most to achieve smooth skin.. this is a dry skin type. Do you find you have a shiney t- zone, or makeup slides off your face. Does your face feel greasey to touch? this is more towards an oily skin type. Then combination is a bit of both, most commonly and oily t-zone and then dry patches. Don't be afraid to say you don't have problematic skin, you're one of the lucky few who has good skin, this just means you have more choice of foundations. Once you know you're skin type it will become a lot easier to find a foundation as it will elimate a lot of others which won't be suitable.

 Next is what sort of finish you would like out of your foundation. Most commonly an oily skin type will opt for a matte finish and a dry skin for a dewy finish. This isn't always the case are there are no rules, you just need to know what you want so you can be advised towards the right product. For example if an oily skin type wants a dewy finish, you could use an oil control lotion teamed with a oil free foundation and then a liquid highlighter could be added after to give that extra radiance. There is also a semi matte finish available. A satin finish is popular for a more mature skin. Don't be fooled in thinking there is limited options when concerning a finish, just think of how you would like your skin to look. I have dry skin, I am aware of this so exfoliate and moisturise in order to keep it in good condition, yet I feel even when my skin is well hydrated it is slightly dull looking, therefore I opt for a foundation with a dewy finish and for a night out I mix in a liquid highlighter to give me that extra sunkissed glow.

Coverage is one of the things people most struggle with. This is how much of your skin you want to see through the foundation. For example if you have freckles a sheer coverage will mean you can still see them, if you want to conceal them you would opt for a full coverage. I am a firm believer in wearing a sheer to medium coverage for the day time. I find majority of young girls I meet especially late teens and early twenties choose a full coverage foundation because they get the odd break out and blemish. That is concealers job. If you have good skin, yet have the odd blemish full coverage isn't necessary. I understand it is what you feel most confident in, yet if you wear full coverage in the day in bright lights and to the naked eye it can sometimes look obvious and heavy. I prefer to have a more natural coverage in the day so my skin looks different in the day time then it does when I'm on a night out. Sheer coverage looks more natural, medium will give you extra coverage and can be built up over any problematic areas. A full will look the least natural- this is best for those who have a problematic skin, acne or scarring. Remember coverage can also be altered by how you apply the foundation, using your hands will give you less coverage, application using a brush will give you more and when using a sponge you will get the most coverage from the foundation.

The final thing isn't important to a lot of people, yet some have a preference, so i thought i would include it.. It is the form in which your foundation comes in. Some people prefer a liquid or definitely don't want a cream. Consider this when foundation shopping as this can eliminate some options. I personally don't have a preference and I mainly use liquid, yet I have started to wear a lot of cream foundations lately, there is also a powder which again is more popular with a more mature skin type. With me saying I don't have a preference I must admit I am yet to find a mousse foundation which I really like.

Foundation is such an important thing as it is the base of your whole look, therefore spend time working out what it is you want, try as many testers and samples you can. I have tried lots over the years and there are some I like over others and I have a few firm favourites, I will always keep looking and testing others (possibly due to the nature of my job.) What works for your friend may not necessarily be right for you, so try as many as you can, most counters offer sample pots or testers. I believe a foundation is like a perfume, what is nice on one person may not suit someone else and what isn't your style might be someone elses favourite. Once you realise it's a personal choice and hopefully this blog will help you to discover what exactly it is you want from your foundation your are better equipped to ask for help and the advisor is able to choose the best product for you. 

Remember the answer to the questions; what coverage? what is your skin type? and what finish? is never tanned/brown. Let the advisor match your colour and you can always lighten or darken with the use of powders. It is essential you get the right shade to match your skin. If you want it to match your false tan, wear the tan on the day of your match.

Fair of Face x


 
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